Objectives

This project primarily focuses on the 128 items of women’s clothing and 51 items of children’s clothing from the Korean Peninsula, which are included in the National Museum of Ethnology’s (Minpaku) “Clothing and Accessories Collection Database”. Korean research at Minpaku has previously focused on costumes used in shamanism, farmers’ music and mask theater, but insufficient consideration has been given to everyday clothing., This research aims to systematically organize data on women’s and children’s clothing by era, region and usage, to understand the connection between clothing and life at the time of collection. The medium of clothing expresses the status of the user, the context of use (labour or ritual), sensibility through color and shape, and symbolism through patterns or motifs. In addition, each item has its own unique manufacturing methods (weaving process), period-specific charateristics, expected users (age and social class), and materials. Taking into account the various attributes of these diverse items of clothing, we will explore the cultural context in which they were used. Through this research, we will provide comprehensive and accurate knowledge about women’s and children’s clothing, and establish a foundation for later expanding the research to everyday men’s clothing. We expect future research to provide insight into Korea's complex and diverse clothing culture.

Description

Minpaku’s “Clothing and Accessories Collection Database” has detailed records for 128 items of women’s and 51 items of children’s clothing. However, the large quantity of “Korean Daily commodities” that was donated when Minpaku held the special exhibition in 2002 are not included in this database, making it insufficient for a comprehensive exploration of Korean clothing in the collection. The “Artifact Catalog Database” also shows a degree of confusion over regions, eras and usages, such as a hat from China being listed as from the Korean peninsula, or a wedding costume recorded as a child’s birthday outfit. Additionally, costumes for mask theater, shamanic rituals, festivals and farmer’s music also make up the majority of the items listed, and research into general clothing is not reflected. Furthermore, because traditional clothing has previously been the primary focus of collection and research at Minpaku, there has been insufficient research and collection of everyday clothing. As a result, the database on Korean clothing culture mainly consists of traditional ceremonial attire or garments used for specific events, and little attention has been paid to accessories, shoes, socks, underwear etc. There has also not been any in-depth research into aspects such as the color, shape and patterns of clothing. Based on the two Minpaku databases “Clothing and Accessories Collection” and “Korean Daily Commodities”, as well as on information on all women and children's clothing included in the “Artifact Catalog Database”, this project will, first of all, aim to utilize the characteristics of each resource to construct a new database. The starting point will be to organize these three separate databases.

Secondly, this project aims to gain a more detailed understanding of Korea’s rich clothing culture from the organized materials. The specific contents are as follows:
(1) Data Sorting and Categorization: Systematically sort and categorize women and children’s clothing data by era, region and context. With the cooperation of experts, correct any errors in the current categorization and naming, and record accurate information, including clothing sizes. This will provide basic information for each item of clothing and clarify their usage context.
(2) Symbolism and Function of Clothing: Women’s and children’s clothing is not merely decorative, but also a social and cultural symbol. In particular, they convey various meanings related to status, activities and the era. The project will focus on these symbolic and functional aspects, and a detailed literature survey will be conducted to analyze how costumes are connected to daily life. In order to achieve this objective, we will collect narratives about objects by conducting field researches and interviews with ordinary women. For example, stories about maternity belt used during pregnancy, the folk custom of making baby clothes, and narratives about clothes for birth ceremonies, will be connected to my previous research on postpartum customs, as well as research on items in the collection.
(3) Clothing Manufacturing and Crafts: We will investigate the process for making clothing, the diverse materials used, and the techniques of production, to clarify the textile manufacturing methods and techniques of the time.
(4) Cultural Change and Influence: We will explore Korean history, culture and social changes through clothing, to gain a deeper insight into how clothing has responded to historical, regional and social changes, and how it has influenced these changes, highlighting the diversity and uniqueness of Korea’s clothing culture.

Expected results

The changes women and children’s everyday clothing over different periods serve as important clues in interpreting the historical processes by which clothing was derived in relation to the social context of the time. A broader understanding of the cultural significance of everyday clothing provides a deeper insight into the aesthetic sensibilities surrounding people’s daily life. By recording not only the clothing, but also the tools of production, techniques, and skills used to make them, we will contribute to the preservation and spread of traditional techniques. In addition, by correcting the database and reconstructing the materials, we aim to provide more accurate information and educational resources for understanding the flow of social change. Based on the results of this research, we will also promote academic exchange by hosting an international seminar with experts on Korean clothing and gender history. In the future, we plan to collaborate with Centers for Overseas Resources on Korean Studies to construct a database and make it available for Korean researchers.