Description

Minpaku’s “Clothing and Accessory Collection Database” has detailed records for 128 items of women’s and 51 items of children’s clothing. However, the large quantity of “Korean daily commodities” that was donated when Minpaku held a special exhibition of that name in 2002 are not included in this database, which means it is not adequate for exploring all the items of Korean clothing in the collection. Even the “Artifact Catalog Database” lists a hat from China as being from the Korean peninsula, and a wedding costume as being a child’s birthday outfit, demonstrating a degree of confusion over the region, era and usage. Costumes for mask theater, festivals and farmer’s music also make up the majority of the items listed, and research into general clothing is not reflected. Furthermore, because traditional clothing has previously been the primary focus of collection and research at Minpaku, there has been insufficient research and collection of everyday clothing. The result is that the information accumulated about Korean clothing culture is outdated, and no attention has been paid to accessories, shoes, socks, underwear etc. There has also not been any in-depth research into aspects such as the color, shape and patterns of clothing.
Our aim with the research for this fiscal year is to build a more accurate and comprehensive database by proceeding with the detailed documentation of each artifact based on the data sorted during the previous fiscal year. The exact content of the research is as follows:
(1) Data sorting and categorization: Systematically sort and categorize women and children’s clothing data by era, region and situation. With the cooperation of experts, correct any errors with the current categorization and naming and record accurate information, including clothing sizes and materials. This will provide basic information for all items of clothing and clarify their usage context.
(2) Symbolism and function of clothing: Clothing is not only decorative, but also a social and cultural symbol. In particular, it conveys various meanings related to status, activity and era. The research will focus on this symbolism and function, and a detailed literature survey will be conducted to analyze how clothing is connected to daily life. We will also gain a deeper understanding of the social and cultural context behind the garments through field studies and reviews by experts. Clothing manufacturing and crafts: We will investigate the process for manufacturing clothing, the diverse materials used, and the manufacturing techniques, in order to clarify the fabric manufacturing methods and techniques of the time.
(3) Clothing manufacturing and materials: We will investigate the process for manufacturing clothing, the diverse materials used, and the manufacturing techniques, in order to clarify the fabric manufacturing methods and techniques of the time. In particular, the meanings and technical characteristics of clothing patterns will be analyzed in detail to gain a more systematic understanding of the cultural value of clothing.
(4) Research into the background of collection and information on collectors, as well as linkage with existing databases: We will sort information about the collector and background to the collection for each item. Using URL links, we will connect collectors to the existing Minpaku database “Database of People / Objects Concerning HOYA Museum Attached to the Japanese Society of Ethnology”, with the aim of mutually complementing the information in each database.
(5) Utilization of documentation and practical considerations: As part of efforts to utilize the research results, a seminar will be held in July in collaboration with classes in the Department of Cultural Anthropology at Duksung Women's University in Korea to discuss the patterns, history, and cultural significance of the Korean materials. This seminar will explore new developments and potential applications for the research findings.

Expected results

The changes with each era of women and children’s everyday clothing are an important clue in interpreting the historical processes by which clothing is derived in relation to the social context of the time. A broader understanding of the cultural significance of everyday clothing provides a deeper insight into the aesthetic sensibilities surrounding people’s daily lives. By recording not only the clothing, but also the tools of production, techniques, and skills used to make them, we will contribute to the preservation and spread of traditional techniques. In addition, by correcting the database and reconstructing the materials, we will provide more accurate information which can be used as an educational resource for understanding the flow of social change. Based on the results of this research, we will also promote academic exchange by hosting an international seminar with experts on Korean clothing and gender history.

Outcomes from 2024

The main goal of this year's research was to understand the current state of collection of clothing from the Korean Peninsula region, and based on that, to determine the scope and direction of the database. As we proceeded with the work of checking and sorting the materials, we were reminded that information about the collectors is an extremely important research resource, and this prompted us to reconsider our previous research policy.
First, we invited four Korean clothing experts to visit Minpaku twice to inspect and measure the 160 items. Through this process, we confirmed that there were numerous errors in the information regarding the clothing's names, uses, sex, era, etc., and we realized the need to supplement the information. In order to correct and examine this information more accurately, two Korean researchers who had initially participated as observers were added as joint researchers during the second visit, which meant we now had four people writing information for the collection items. As a result, the research budget exceeded the planned amount, but this was a necessary change to ensure the preparation of accurate data.
Next, in order to sort collector information and consider the possibility of linking it to existing databases, we checked Minpaku’s “Clothing and Accessory Collection Database” and the “Database of People / Objects Concerning HOYA Museum Attached to the Japanese Society of Ethnology”. Previously, the focus of the research had been on collecting information from ordinary women through field studies and interviews, and studying the narratives surrounding objects. However, as the research progressed, it became clear that not only analysis of the items of clothing themselves, but also information about the collectors and the background to their collection activities is extremely important in understanding the materials, so we concluded that linking these data points would be essential for the progress of research.
Therefore, in order to gain a more detailed understanding of the acquisition route of the Tanaka Chiyo Collection, which includes materials related to the Yi imperial family, we visited the Shibuya School of Fashion and Art and studied materials related to Chiyo Tanaka, such as photographs, magazines, and notes. Through this, we were able to obtain information about the background and network of her research and collecting activities, but further analysis and utilization of this information is required in the future.
Based on these preparations, in the second year of research, we plan to proceed with detailed documentation of each item of clothing, sort all the information regarding collectors and the background to their collection activities, and fully integrate this within the database. We will place particular emphasis on linking the provenance of clothing items more closely with the collector information, and look to strengthen links with existing databases.